Evening sun across the rooftops of Tregaron, West Wales. One of Wales' most isolated towns, Tregaron stands at the foot foot of the Cambrian Mountains near the source of the River Teifi. Twelve miles east is the Cardigan Bay coastline. A winding single-track road heads west out of Tregaron across the Mynydd Elenydd hills, descending through the wild and beautiful Aberwgesyn Valley.